EPA refers to the CSAB415.1-10 standard for the calculation of the appliance’s efficiency. The efficiency reported as per EPA’s directives consists of an average between four different burn rates, ranging from the lowest burn rate (air intake completely closed) to the highest burn rate (air intake completely open). The optimum efficiency that we publicize is the efficiency obtained according to the same test data, but for the low burn rate only. This efficiency is more realistic for a majority of users whose heating needs require that the unit be used to maximize burn times.

Before answering this question, it is very important that you clearly identify what your needs are. Some people will buy a heater simply to enhance the ambiance of a room, while others will buy a heater as their main source of heat. There is no good or bad reason for buying a wood-heat system. If you simply want to enhance the ambiance of a room, most small to medium size heaters will suit your needs. Simply chose the style you like best, and put the unit in the room where you spend the most time. The heat and look of a glowing fire will create an atmosphere of warmth and coziness.
If your primary need is to heat, you must verify the heating capacity of your heater based on the technical data provided by the manufacturer. For instance, if you want to heat an 800-square-foot area on one floor, you need to buy a heater with a minimum capacity of 800 sq. ft.
If you need to heat more than one floor, keep in mind that heat rises. Therefore, a heater located in your basement will help you heat the main floor as well. However, the contrary is not true; a heater located on the main floor (ground floor) will not heat the basement. Keep in mind also that the more divisions there are in the house, the harder it will be to distribute the heat evenly.
If you need to heat two floors, calculate the surface of the lower floor. Then, add 50% of the surface of the upper floor. For instance, if you install a wood-heating system in the basement and you have 800 sq.ft., you will need a heater with a minimum capacity of 1,200 sq.ft. (800 + 400 = 1,200.
If you need to heat more than two floors, calculate the surface of the lower floor (where the wood-heating system is located). Then, add 50% of the surface of the middle floor, and 25% of the surface of the upper floor. For instance, if you install a heater in the basement and you have 800 sq.ft., you will need a heater with a minimum capacity of 1,400 sq.ft. (800+400+200= 1,400). Consult the drawing below. It will help you understand the explanations provided in this section.
REMEMBER: We are talking about "zone" heating, not central heating. The room where the heater is located and the rooms directly above it will always reach higher temperatures than the rooms distant from the unit. If you want an even temperature throughout the house, you need to consider a central heating system, such as a warm air wood furnace. Furthermore, you must keep in mind that the size of the heater you need may vary based on the insulation of your house, its exposure to wind, and the number of windows. It will always be prudent to buy a heater with a capacity that is slightly higher than the minimum capacity that you need. For instance, if you need a minimum capacity of 1,400 sq.ft., it will be more prudent to buy a heater with a capacity of 1,600 sq.ft., if not 1,800 sq.ft. There are three main advantages in buying a larger appliance: the increased heating capacity, the ease of loading more and larger logs (as a result of the greater firebox volume), and the increased combustion time (given the higher loading capacity).

The drawing above gives an example of the minimum heating capacity required for a wood-heating system installed in a house with three floors of 800 sq.ft. each. We assume that the house is well insulated and that air can circulate between each floor through an open stairway and/or floor traps.

Yes, floor protection is required for any wood appliance unless the unit already sits on a non-combustible surface. You have many choices, such as stone, brick, cement board, or tile. You need to consult your owner's manual in order to know the dimensions of the floor protection specific to your model. In Canada, the floor protection must extend in front of the unit by at least 18 inches and by at least 8 inches on each side. In the USA, the floor protection must extend at least 8 inches on each side of the appliance (measured from the door opening) and at least 16 inches in front of the door opening.

The Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Green Building Rating System™ encourages and accelerates global adoption of sustainable green building and development practices through the creation and implementation of universally understood and accepted tools and performance criteria. LEED is a third-party certification program and an internationally accepted benchmark for the design, construction and operation of high performance green buildings. It provides building owners and operators the tools they need to have an immediate and measurable impact on their buildings’ performance.
The Canadian Green Building Council (CGBC) certifies LEED projects. The Certification is based on the total point score achieved, following an independent review and an audit of selected Credits. With four possible levels of certification (certified, silver, gold and platinum), LEED® is flexible enough to accommodate a wide range of green building strategies that best fit the constraints and goals of particular projects. The Canadian rating systems are an adaptation of the US Green Building Council's (USGBC) LEED Green Building Rating System, tailored specifically for Canadian climates, construction practices and regulations. The rating systems are adapted to the Canadian market through an inclusive process that engages stakeholders and experts representing the various sectors of the Canadian industry.
Wood or pellet stoves, fireplaces, and inserts can qualify under LEED and obtain up to one point provided that they meet the following criteria.

Your appliance is not designed to burn corn. The combustion of corn requires mechanical and electronic adjustments. Without those adjustments, corn combustion may cause the appliance to overheat, malfunction, or wear out prematurely. Consult your owner’s manuals for the type of pelletized fuel that may be used with your appliance.

Your appliance is not designed to burn corn. The combustion of corn requires mechanical and electronic adjustments. Without those adjustments, corn combustion may cause the appliance to overheat, malfunction, or wear out prematurely. Consult your owner’s manuals for the type of pelletized fuel that may be used with your appliance.

You can vent your appliance through a masonry chimney. It is important that the masonry chimney be built in compliance with the specifications of the National Building Code or other applicable standard having jurisdiction. It must be lined with fire-clay bricks, metal or clay tiles sealed together with fire cement. The minimum venting requirement will be the installation of a stainless steel liner from the appliance to the extremity of the chimney. Given the elevation for this type of installation, a 4-inch diameter is normally required. Using a fire screen at the extremity of the chimney requires regular inspection in order to ensure that it is not obstructed thus blocking the draught. It should be cleaned when necessary.

A fresh air intake is not mandatory for your pellet stove, unless the unit is installed in a mobile home or if the local building code or the manufacturer requires it. Pellet stoves use a mechanical draft.
Combustion air is forced into the unit using combustion and/or exhaust motors. In the case of a very air-tight house, it may be difficult to replace the combustion air expelled outside the residence. This could lead to a poor combustion. In this case, the installation of a fresh air intake is strongly recommended. However, if the stove is installed in an open room, in a house that is more or less air-tight, combustion air will normally be easily replaced. In this case, the installation of a fresh air intake is not required. It must, however, be noted that a fresh air intake, even if it is not mandatory, will always provide the advantage of better balancing the house with regards to combustion air.
A fresh air intake is mandatory when installed in a mobile home for these pellet stoves.
1 - 35 and 35 insert series
2 - 45 series
3 - 50 series
4 - 65 series
A fresh air intake is mandatory in all installations for these pellet stoves.
1 - 65 series

The quality of the pellets used will first have an impact on ignition. Pellets with a high moisture content can cause a failed or delayed ignition. Make sure that you always store your fuel in a dry area. As far as combustion goes, a pellet with a high ash content will allow the formation of a crust inside the burn pot, which will require more frequent cleaning. Moreover, incomplete combustion can lead to the clogging of the burn pot, which will cause the appliance to shut down. Make sure you use pellets for residential purposes with a premium or super-premium grade. The ash content should be equal or lower than 1% and should be certified by the pellet manufacturer. It should be clearly marked on the bag. Certain pellet appliances have a burner designed for the use of higher-ash pellets. The main characteristic of those burners is that the combustion residues are pushed out of the burn area as the fuel gets consumed, therefore preventing any significant ash accumulation. In our industry jargon, this technology is often referred to as bottom feed.

Our pellet appliances are certified on 3" and/or 4" pellet vent. If they are installed on a chimney having a larger diameter, we cannot guarantee that the appliance's performance will be adequate. Therefore, if you intend to vent your pellet unit through a prefabricated chimney, the minimum requirement will be the installation of a stainless steel liner from the appliance to the extremity of the chimney. Given the elevation for this type of installation, a liner with a 4-inch diameter will be required. Using a fire screen at the extremity of the chimney requires regular inspection in order to ensure that it is not obstructed thus blocking the draught. It should be cleaned when necessary.

This is not recommended. The GFCI will sense the difference in the amount of electricity flowing in and out of the circuit, even in amounts of current as small as 4 or 5 milliamperes. The GFCI reacts quickly (less than one tenth of a second) to trip or shut off the circuit.
A properly grounded 3 prong outlet provides adequate protection for both people and the appliance should a short circuit occur.